Tips & Tricks for your New Puppy!
The simple things that make all the difference!
Help your new puppy Love human touch!
Reading your puppies body language
The more we can communicate with our puppy, the better our relationship will be. While it is important to teach our puppy words such as sit, down, stay, come, leave it, etc., body language can also help us to understand one another. Our body language tells a puppy a lot! For example, when we want our puppy to come, backing away from our puppy, getting low, putting our hands palm up, and not making eye contact are all things we can do with our bodies to help make our puppy want to come to us. Jumping dogs? Turning our backs to them with our arms crossed is a clear sign that we don't like that behavior. What about our puppies? Are there things they try to tell us with their body? Here is a quick overview of what they are trying to say to us:
MOUTH:
MOUTH:
- Dogs pant to reduce stress.
- It is easy for kids to see and recognize.
- Panting means they are dealing with their stress. They are handling it OK.
- A closed, tight mouth means stay away. They are not handling the stress well.
- Licking lips and a yawn at the same time means your dog is feeling conflict.
- An open mouth with a loose tongue tells us the dog is relaxed and not feeling stressed.
- Half-moon eye = anxiety (no exceptions)
- If you notice the half-moon eye, teach your kids NOT to approach the dog.
- As a parent, intervene.
- This sometimes occurs if a puppy is guarding a bone or his food dish so do socialization exercises to eliminate the guarding behavior.
- Offer a food reward as a replacement for a bone. ALWAYS TRADE UP!
- If there is tension in the face or eyes, give your puppy space.
- Dogs generally do NOT like hugs (being held tightly around their necks)
- Dogs can be trained to tolerate them, though.
- Hugs are the primary cause of facial bites to kids.
- Scratch his chest or neck instead.
- Give affection on your dog’s terms. Sometimes, he may just need quiet time.
- Loose, noodle-like body language tells us the dog is approachable.
- Tight, stiff, tense posture means they need space.
- A shake-off when the dog is dry is their way of releasing tension.
- HAPPY: helicopter tail wagging, gentle or loose wag
- NOT HAPPY: high, stiff tail or tail between legs
Learning to Sit
Have you ever asked your puppy to “SIT” but instead he looks at you like, “I have no idea what you are talking about!”? Puppies do not generalize well, meaning “SIT” must be taught not only in the living room, but in the kitchen, bedroom, bathroom, front yard, back yard, etc. Every behavior & cue your puppy learns must be practiced in a variety of locations, at different times of the day, given by people other than yourself and amidst distractions.
Of course, you won’t want to try this on day one, especially with a very young puppy. Work up to it! Start by teaching your puppy a new behavior in a quiet room with minimal distractions. Once your puppy no longer needs a lure to do the behavior, move to a different room and work on the behavior there. Keep moving around until your puppy realizes that “SIT” means “SIT” no matter where we are or what we are doing. Repeat with all new cues.
You may need to start teaching the cue from the luring phase depending on your location. For example, if you are on main street and your puppy is so distracted by the many cars speeding by, you may need to pull out a food reward lure to regain his attention on you. Then you can practice the cue only using the lure if needed; try saying just the cue and only use the lure if he does not respond after 5-7 seconds. Practice the cue several times in the new location until he successfully performs as desired.
Keep things positive and training sessions short, especially with young puppies! Strive for 2-3 good performances then move on. Your goal is for your puppy to do every behavior he knows, in any location, given by anyone, with any distraction going on. This is tough and a high demand! Do not get frustrated. Just set your sights high and your puppy will rise to the occasion with practice, patience and persistence.
Of course, you won’t want to try this on day one, especially with a very young puppy. Work up to it! Start by teaching your puppy a new behavior in a quiet room with minimal distractions. Once your puppy no longer needs a lure to do the behavior, move to a different room and work on the behavior there. Keep moving around until your puppy realizes that “SIT” means “SIT” no matter where we are or what we are doing. Repeat with all new cues.
You may need to start teaching the cue from the luring phase depending on your location. For example, if you are on main street and your puppy is so distracted by the many cars speeding by, you may need to pull out a food reward lure to regain his attention on you. Then you can practice the cue only using the lure if needed; try saying just the cue and only use the lure if he does not respond after 5-7 seconds. Practice the cue several times in the new location until he successfully performs as desired.
Keep things positive and training sessions short, especially with young puppies! Strive for 2-3 good performances then move on. Your goal is for your puppy to do every behavior he knows, in any location, given by anyone, with any distraction going on. This is tough and a high demand! Do not get frustrated. Just set your sights high and your puppy will rise to the occasion with practice, patience and persistence.
Chewing
Does your puppy LOVE to chew? Chewing is natural dog behavior. In fact, dogs need to chew and to them, everything is chewable. Just like little kids, puppies explore the world around them by putting things in their mouths. It is your job to supervise what your puppy can and cannot put in their mouth, so watch them closely and replace what they shouldn’t be chewing with something they can chew. Never leave a young puppy unattended in your home. A large part of training is prevention! Do not let bad habits form. Use your puppy’s crate or pen for times when you cannot keep your eye on them 100%.
Set your puppy up for success by putting appropriate chew toys in a pen with them. They can chew anything in the pen, nothing outside the pen including your carpet or shoes! Adult dogs who are destructive chewers, meaning they chew household items most likely were never taught what was appropriate to chew and what was not. Start today with your dog to set boundaries and enforce the rules.
If you have a young puppy at your house, make sure to establish limits on what they can chew right away; replace items they cannot chew with an appropriate item. Try to do this BEFORE they chew something inappropriate. When you see them looking at the table leg, interrupt with a fun sound and show them a cool chew toy instead. If needed, meaning they start chewing something you don't want them to chew, swap out a soft item for a soft chew toy and something hard for a hard chew toy. For example, if they are tearing up a pillow or stuffed animal, swap it out for a soft, safe plush toy. Hard for hard, soft for soft. Always make the swap worth it. Help them see the new item as fun by wiggling it around or making it squeak.
Dogs also chew out of boredom, so make sure to spend plenty of quality time with your dog each day. Give them exercise and a job to do such as basic training. A few minutes every hour is a good goal, working on new behaviors you want your dog to learn. We want your dog to have mental exercise through training, but we also want your dog to learn to self-entertain too. Being in a pen with their toys helps with this part.
Furthermore, puppies are growing teeth which causes sore gums and chewing makes the gums feel better. Your puppy starts to lose their baby teeth around 4-5 months and may need to chew a LOT in this time frame. Try freezing a wet, rolled up washcloth with bits of freeze dried liver in the middle then giving it to your puppy to soothe their hot gums. Be sure to remove the washcloth if your puppy starts to shred it. Always supervise your puppy with new chews. Another idea is to fill a FreezBone with veggies, kibble, a tablespoon each of 100% pumpkin puree and plain Greek yogurt, and a dog biscuit. Put it in the freezer for 20+ minutes then give it to your pup! Mix up what you give your puppy to chew and provide several options to keep things interesting.
In short, all dogs chew. It is a natural dog behavior. Our job is to teach our puppy what they can and cannot chew by establishing house rules and redirecting our puppy’s actions as necessary. Spending time in their pen with appropriate chews helps them learn what they can chew! Use the pen and crate to help prevent bad habits from forming such as chewing table or sofa legs. Get to know what kind of chewer your puppy is and only give them chews appropriate for them.
Set your puppy up for success by putting appropriate chew toys in a pen with them. They can chew anything in the pen, nothing outside the pen including your carpet or shoes! Adult dogs who are destructive chewers, meaning they chew household items most likely were never taught what was appropriate to chew and what was not. Start today with your dog to set boundaries and enforce the rules.
If you have a young puppy at your house, make sure to establish limits on what they can chew right away; replace items they cannot chew with an appropriate item. Try to do this BEFORE they chew something inappropriate. When you see them looking at the table leg, interrupt with a fun sound and show them a cool chew toy instead. If needed, meaning they start chewing something you don't want them to chew, swap out a soft item for a soft chew toy and something hard for a hard chew toy. For example, if they are tearing up a pillow or stuffed animal, swap it out for a soft, safe plush toy. Hard for hard, soft for soft. Always make the swap worth it. Help them see the new item as fun by wiggling it around or making it squeak.
Dogs also chew out of boredom, so make sure to spend plenty of quality time with your dog each day. Give them exercise and a job to do such as basic training. A few minutes every hour is a good goal, working on new behaviors you want your dog to learn. We want your dog to have mental exercise through training, but we also want your dog to learn to self-entertain too. Being in a pen with their toys helps with this part.
Furthermore, puppies are growing teeth which causes sore gums and chewing makes the gums feel better. Your puppy starts to lose their baby teeth around 4-5 months and may need to chew a LOT in this time frame. Try freezing a wet, rolled up washcloth with bits of freeze dried liver in the middle then giving it to your puppy to soothe their hot gums. Be sure to remove the washcloth if your puppy starts to shred it. Always supervise your puppy with new chews. Another idea is to fill a FreezBone with veggies, kibble, a tablespoon each of 100% pumpkin puree and plain Greek yogurt, and a dog biscuit. Put it in the freezer for 20+ minutes then give it to your pup! Mix up what you give your puppy to chew and provide several options to keep things interesting.
In short, all dogs chew. It is a natural dog behavior. Our job is to teach our puppy what they can and cannot chew by establishing house rules and redirecting our puppy’s actions as necessary. Spending time in their pen with appropriate chews helps them learn what they can chew! Use the pen and crate to help prevent bad habits from forming such as chewing table or sofa legs. Get to know what kind of chewer your puppy is and only give them chews appropriate for them.
Crate Training
Crate training can be a game-changer for you and your puppy—but it’s not always easy to know where to start. Here’s a step-by-step guide to making crate training a positive and stress-free experience:
Create a Welcoming Environment
Your puppy’s crate should feel like their personal sanctuary. Line it with soft bedding, add a couple of their favorite toys, and toss in a treat or two. Consider placing the crate in a quiet spot where your puppy feels safe but still part of the family.
Introduce the Crate Gradually
The key is to build trust. Start by leaving the door open and letting your puppy explore the crate on their own. Use treats or kibble to lure them inside, and praise them when they step in. Remember: this is about creating positive associations.
Short and Sweet Sessions
Begin with short crate sessions while you’re at home. Sit close so your puppy doesn’t feel alone. Gradually increase the time they spend in the crate, always rewarding calm behavior.
Stick to a Routine
Puppies thrive on routine, so incorporate crate time into your daily schedule. Use the crate for naps and bedtime to help your puppy understand it’s a place for rest.
Practice Patience and Persistence
Your puppy might whine or bark at first. Resist the urge to let them out immediately; doing so reinforces the behavior. Wait until they’re calm, then open the crate. Consistency is crucial for long-term success.
Make Leaving and Returning Low-Key
When leaving your puppy in the crate, keep your goodbyes short and sweet. The same goes for greetings when you return. This helps reduce separation anxiety.
Crate training takes time and patience, but with these steps, your puppy will come to see their crate as their happy, safe place.
Create a Welcoming Environment
Your puppy’s crate should feel like their personal sanctuary. Line it with soft bedding, add a couple of their favorite toys, and toss in a treat or two. Consider placing the crate in a quiet spot where your puppy feels safe but still part of the family.
Introduce the Crate Gradually
The key is to build trust. Start by leaving the door open and letting your puppy explore the crate on their own. Use treats or kibble to lure them inside, and praise them when they step in. Remember: this is about creating positive associations.
Short and Sweet Sessions
Begin with short crate sessions while you’re at home. Sit close so your puppy doesn’t feel alone. Gradually increase the time they spend in the crate, always rewarding calm behavior.
Stick to a Routine
Puppies thrive on routine, so incorporate crate time into your daily schedule. Use the crate for naps and bedtime to help your puppy understand it’s a place for rest.
Practice Patience and Persistence
Your puppy might whine or bark at first. Resist the urge to let them out immediately; doing so reinforces the behavior. Wait until they’re calm, then open the crate. Consistency is crucial for long-term success.
Make Leaving and Returning Low-Key
When leaving your puppy in the crate, keep your goodbyes short and sweet. The same goes for greetings when you return. This helps reduce separation anxiety.
Crate training takes time and patience, but with these steps, your puppy will come to see their crate as their happy, safe place.
Potty Training
Stop Your Dog From Peeing in the House with These 5 Tips
Are you struggling with house training your pup? Don’t worry—you’re not alone! Here are five key tips from our recent podcast episode to help you stop those accidents and set your dog up for success.
1. Start with management: Use tools like crates or baby gates to control your dog’s environment. This prevents accidents when you’re not watching and helps them learn where it’s appropriate to go.
2. Stick to a routine: Consistency is everything. Take your dog out at the same times every day—after meals, naps, playtime, and first thing in the morning. Dogs thrive on structure!
3. Watch for signs: Learn to recognize when your dog needs to go. Sniffing, circling, or pacing are common signals. The sooner you catch these, the fewer accidents you’ll have!
Always remember to keep it positive—praise and reward your dog when they go outside and avoid punishment for accidents. With patience and consistency, you’ll have a house-trained dog in no time.
Are you struggling with house training your pup? Don’t worry—you’re not alone! Here are five key tips from our recent podcast episode to help you stop those accidents and set your dog up for success.
1. Start with management: Use tools like crates or baby gates to control your dog’s environment. This prevents accidents when you’re not watching and helps them learn where it’s appropriate to go.
2. Stick to a routine: Consistency is everything. Take your dog out at the same times every day—after meals, naps, playtime, and first thing in the morning. Dogs thrive on structure!
3. Watch for signs: Learn to recognize when your dog needs to go. Sniffing, circling, or pacing are common signals. The sooner you catch these, the fewer accidents you’ll have!
Always remember to keep it positive—praise and reward your dog when they go outside and avoid punishment for accidents. With patience and consistency, you’ll have a house-trained dog in no time.
Counter Surfing
Counters are often tempting for dogs because of the fun, smelly things that are often found on them. Depending on the height of your kitchen counters and the size of your puppy, this may become an issue at your house. Counter surfing is when your dog snatches food or other items from a counter in your home. This could be by standing on their hind legs and reaching or actually jumping onto the counter to see what they can find.
Obviously this is a behavior we want to avoid or extinguish as soon as possible. The first line of defense is to keep your counters clean. Put food away in a cupboard or pantry when you are done with it, and wipe the counters off with a rag to eliminate any remaining crumbs. Doing this will eliminate the temptation to search around your counters for rewards.
The second thing you can do is teach your puppy the LEAVE IT cue. When working on this skill, involve counters. When a plate of food is on the counter, you can give the cue LEAVE IT and reward your puppy for looking at you and leaving the area. I like to practice this behavior with my puppies using a low table, such as a coffee table, in my living room. Be ready with high-value rewards. The key to success with this one is making sure your puppy NEVER gets the item, hence rewarding themselves. Always practice this behavior with your puppy on leash to help reinforce the rules.
Next, you can avoid counter surfing by watching your puppy 100% while they are out and about. The easiest habit to break is the one that was never formed. It is much easier to create a habit than to undo a bad one, so don’t let counter surfing become an issue by simply watching your puppy. They can be in the kitchen while you are there, but take them with you when you leave. A simple UH-UH or NO can be issued if you see them looking at the counter in anticipation, which can quickly curb their thoughts of surfing.
Finally, think about what you want your puppy to do and focus on that! For example, I reward my puppies whenever they lie in the kitchen. They quickly learn to lie on their beds, and a tasty food reward will come their way every so often. This way, I train them to stay off my counters because I simply reward the behavior, I want repeated. They relax while I eat or prepare food, then go with me when I leave.
Obviously this is a behavior we want to avoid or extinguish as soon as possible. The first line of defense is to keep your counters clean. Put food away in a cupboard or pantry when you are done with it, and wipe the counters off with a rag to eliminate any remaining crumbs. Doing this will eliminate the temptation to search around your counters for rewards.
The second thing you can do is teach your puppy the LEAVE IT cue. When working on this skill, involve counters. When a plate of food is on the counter, you can give the cue LEAVE IT and reward your puppy for looking at you and leaving the area. I like to practice this behavior with my puppies using a low table, such as a coffee table, in my living room. Be ready with high-value rewards. The key to success with this one is making sure your puppy NEVER gets the item, hence rewarding themselves. Always practice this behavior with your puppy on leash to help reinforce the rules.
Next, you can avoid counter surfing by watching your puppy 100% while they are out and about. The easiest habit to break is the one that was never formed. It is much easier to create a habit than to undo a bad one, so don’t let counter surfing become an issue by simply watching your puppy. They can be in the kitchen while you are there, but take them with you when you leave. A simple UH-UH or NO can be issued if you see them looking at the counter in anticipation, which can quickly curb their thoughts of surfing.
Finally, think about what you want your puppy to do and focus on that! For example, I reward my puppies whenever they lie in the kitchen. They quickly learn to lie on their beds, and a tasty food reward will come their way every so often. This way, I train them to stay off my counters because I simply reward the behavior, I want repeated. They relax while I eat or prepare food, then go with me when I leave.
Does my poodle need a walk?
While an attention walk with your dog looking responsibly up at you is a great ideal, it takes time and a lot of practice. Many of us get a new puppy and think we need to start walking around the block right away. This may sound crazy to you, but wait. Walks are NOT necessary at such a young age. Play is more useful for exercise until leash skills are acquired.
First we need to teach our puppy what a leash is, let alone how to navigate with one on. We choose a square area then start taking a few steps, getting our puppy to follow us and rewarding them for doing so. Walking backwards in the beginning can help your puppy stay focused on you. Stay in this area and refrain from choosing a sidewalk, pathway or other clear path for your puppy. We want them to follow you, not the path.
The next step is to pick up the leash and start moving together. We proceed to work as a team, moving from point A to B with no care about where we end up. We only start destination walks (around the block, to the park and back) when our puppy has the skills needed to be successful. This often works out well though, because our puppy is not yet vaccinated - so we use that time to teach basic leash skills, then when they are fully immunized, we can start more formal leash training. Walk in circles and figures eights - changing directions often helps your puppy stay engaged and focused on you.
A leash, basic flat collar or harness and yummy food rewards are all you need to get started. Begin in your home in a quiet room. Walk around furniture, in and out of every room and up and down hallways. Next take it outside on a patio or driveway - free from smelly grass, tempting bark and blowing leaves if possible! You know what I’m talking about don’t you? We teach our dogs to give into the slightest amount of leash tension and review this concept often at the start of every leash training session. If your dog pulls, the brakes go on. Try to anticipate when your dog will cause the leash to go tight and change direction before this happens. That is where the circles and figure eights come in! I say, “Let’s go,” before changing directions to cue my dog to pay attention. Something is about to happen. Reward them as they then follow you the other way.
I know it seems like a while before you’ll be out and about going on a walk together but trust me on this one. Put in the time in the beginning doing the small and simple things over and over again, teaching your puppy to follow you. This time pays off big time and soon enough you’ll have a dog who walks beautifully on leash.
First we need to teach our puppy what a leash is, let alone how to navigate with one on. We choose a square area then start taking a few steps, getting our puppy to follow us and rewarding them for doing so. Walking backwards in the beginning can help your puppy stay focused on you. Stay in this area and refrain from choosing a sidewalk, pathway or other clear path for your puppy. We want them to follow you, not the path.
The next step is to pick up the leash and start moving together. We proceed to work as a team, moving from point A to B with no care about where we end up. We only start destination walks (around the block, to the park and back) when our puppy has the skills needed to be successful. This often works out well though, because our puppy is not yet vaccinated - so we use that time to teach basic leash skills, then when they are fully immunized, we can start more formal leash training. Walk in circles and figures eights - changing directions often helps your puppy stay engaged and focused on you.
A leash, basic flat collar or harness and yummy food rewards are all you need to get started. Begin in your home in a quiet room. Walk around furniture, in and out of every room and up and down hallways. Next take it outside on a patio or driveway - free from smelly grass, tempting bark and blowing leaves if possible! You know what I’m talking about don’t you? We teach our dogs to give into the slightest amount of leash tension and review this concept often at the start of every leash training session. If your dog pulls, the brakes go on. Try to anticipate when your dog will cause the leash to go tight and change direction before this happens. That is where the circles and figure eights come in! I say, “Let’s go,” before changing directions to cue my dog to pay attention. Something is about to happen. Reward them as they then follow you the other way.
I know it seems like a while before you’ll be out and about going on a walk together but trust me on this one. Put in the time in the beginning doing the small and simple things over and over again, teaching your puppy to follow you. This time pays off big time and soon enough you’ll have a dog who walks beautifully on leash.
What kind of walk is best?
Today, let’s talk walking. Spring is in the air, and many of us are getting back outside. One of my favorite outdoor activities is a Go Sniff Walk with my dogs. This is what you see everyday pet parents do as they walk with their canine companions on a leash up and down the street, the human enjoying the exercise and the dog thriving on the smells. Just like it is for you, getting out and about for your puppy while walking is much more than obtaining exercise and fresh air. It does wondrous things for their overall health and happiness and assists in substantiating their exposure to life all around them for socialization purposes.
Moreover, it is not much more than attaching a leash to your dog, walking wherever your heart desires, and appreciating all the sights and sounds that come your way. For this type of walk, a 15-foot leash is nice because it allows your dog the freedom to sniff and take in the world around them. I practice recalls using a come or touch cue (I like to mix it up) to encourage my dog to check in with me often and eliminate pulling. This type of walk is so rewarding and much more relaxing. I highly recommend it. Do follow the basic walking rule of never following a pulling puppy, though! Rules still apply.
Whether you use a six-foot or 15-foot leash, you can practice recalls and attention by saying your puppy’s name and check-ins (whenever your puppy comes to your side, give them a food reward.) By defining and rewarding a reward zone, your puppy will want to walk next to you or at least check in with you every few minutes for that food reward! This is the behavior we like, so be sure to reward it!
The Heel Walk is more technical than a regular walk. This walk is when your canine companion is walking not only directly by your side as before, but also focuses their complete attention on you throughout this portion of the walk. This walk is otherwise known as a "HEEL." I think of HEEL as a position more than anything else. I want my dog on my left side directly behind my heel, parallel to me. As you can likely imagine, looking at you while walking perfectly at your side - not in front of or behind you, takes a lot of concentration and commitment on your puppy’s part. In fact, it can be both mentally and physically exhausting for them, and therefore, a Heel Walk is ONLY RECOMMENDED for short distances.
Impressive to observe when done correctly, much like what you may have seen on TV during a dog show, the Heel Walk can be so helpful to you under the right circumstances and will require a lot of time, patience, practice and persistence to get it right, but don't worry, it is well worth the effort in the end!
In the middle of these two types of walk is an Attention Walk. I use a six-foot leash and my dog remains in the “kitchen area” next to my left leg. They don’t need to look at me constantly and they may go slightly ahead or slightly behind at times but they do know where I am and keep themselves in good position to me. They match my speed when I go faster or slower and quickly change directions with me.
This type of leash walking starts inside my home with a puppy around 11 weeks of age. I teach the puppy to follow me off-leash. Then we work on following on leash. We practice in and around furniture before taking it outside to my yard with added distractions. Initial sessions are spent around home building up the basic skills of leash walking while I wait for vaccinations to be completed.
Many people get a puppy and think taking it on a walk is the best thing for them. Recognize that your puppy does not yet have leash-walking skills, and walking through a park is something we’ll need to work on. This takes time and lots of patience, so go at a pace that works for you and your dog. Set a goal to make small achievements weekly, and before you know it, the consistency pays off! A nice loose leash walk is an excellent activity to do together so long as you AND your dog enjoy it. It is NOT the only way to exercise your dog so if your dog would prefer to play fetch and that is more enjoyable to you, go for it!
Moreover, it is not much more than attaching a leash to your dog, walking wherever your heart desires, and appreciating all the sights and sounds that come your way. For this type of walk, a 15-foot leash is nice because it allows your dog the freedom to sniff and take in the world around them. I practice recalls using a come or touch cue (I like to mix it up) to encourage my dog to check in with me often and eliminate pulling. This type of walk is so rewarding and much more relaxing. I highly recommend it. Do follow the basic walking rule of never following a pulling puppy, though! Rules still apply.
Whether you use a six-foot or 15-foot leash, you can practice recalls and attention by saying your puppy’s name and check-ins (whenever your puppy comes to your side, give them a food reward.) By defining and rewarding a reward zone, your puppy will want to walk next to you or at least check in with you every few minutes for that food reward! This is the behavior we like, so be sure to reward it!
The Heel Walk is more technical than a regular walk. This walk is when your canine companion is walking not only directly by your side as before, but also focuses their complete attention on you throughout this portion of the walk. This walk is otherwise known as a "HEEL." I think of HEEL as a position more than anything else. I want my dog on my left side directly behind my heel, parallel to me. As you can likely imagine, looking at you while walking perfectly at your side - not in front of or behind you, takes a lot of concentration and commitment on your puppy’s part. In fact, it can be both mentally and physically exhausting for them, and therefore, a Heel Walk is ONLY RECOMMENDED for short distances.
Impressive to observe when done correctly, much like what you may have seen on TV during a dog show, the Heel Walk can be so helpful to you under the right circumstances and will require a lot of time, patience, practice and persistence to get it right, but don't worry, it is well worth the effort in the end!
In the middle of these two types of walk is an Attention Walk. I use a six-foot leash and my dog remains in the “kitchen area” next to my left leg. They don’t need to look at me constantly and they may go slightly ahead or slightly behind at times but they do know where I am and keep themselves in good position to me. They match my speed when I go faster or slower and quickly change directions with me.
This type of leash walking starts inside my home with a puppy around 11 weeks of age. I teach the puppy to follow me off-leash. Then we work on following on leash. We practice in and around furniture before taking it outside to my yard with added distractions. Initial sessions are spent around home building up the basic skills of leash walking while I wait for vaccinations to be completed.
Many people get a puppy and think taking it on a walk is the best thing for them. Recognize that your puppy does not yet have leash-walking skills, and walking through a park is something we’ll need to work on. This takes time and lots of patience, so go at a pace that works for you and your dog. Set a goal to make small achievements weekly, and before you know it, the consistency pays off! A nice loose leash walk is an excellent activity to do together so long as you AND your dog enjoy it. It is NOT the only way to exercise your dog so if your dog would prefer to play fetch and that is more enjoyable to you, go for it!
Stop leash pulling
Does your puppy pull on leash when going for a walk? Are you that person frantically trying to keep up with your pet who has decided they are in charge of walks?
Today I’m going to teach you a great game called “Stop & Go” with a slight modification. This is how you play. Put your puppy on leash and prepare to go for a walk. Start moving in any direction you choose. The second your puppy puts tension on the leash, stop. Yep, do NOT move. Plant your feet and do not budge or allow your dog to drag you, not one inch. Wait until your puppy turns back toward you as if to say, “Hey! Why aren’t we moving?”
As soon as they put slack back on the leash, continue walking. Your dog wants to go somewhere and walking is the reinforcement. Teach them that you only move if there is slack in the leash. If they feel pressure on their collar, forward movement stops immediately. As a modification to this game, when your dog puts tension on the leash, turn the opposite direction. Circle around, make a figure eight. Do NOT go in the direction of where they were pulling - go the opposite way. This is best done in an area, not on a sidewalk so if your dog is pulling - get off the sidewalks for now.
At first, this may take time as your puppy learns that pulling does NOT work to get them where they want to go. Be persistent and your puppy will catch on that to move they must walk with slack in the leash.
Remember to stay consistent; once you start this game, you must always use it. It will do no good to let your dog pull sometimes, but then expect them not to at other times. Don’t confuse your pup! I recommend bringing along tasty food rewards to reinforce them when they are walking next to you in what we call the “Kitchen Area.” Every so often give them a food reward if they are walking nicely by your side. Also, forget going around the block for now. Start with your driveway, the path to the mailbox, or a neighbor’s house first. Then build up more and more distance when your patience and pup can handle it! Mix up the walk by changing directions, turning in circles, zigzagging, speeding up, slowing down, etc. Happy walking...with no more pulling!
Today I’m going to teach you a great game called “Stop & Go” with a slight modification. This is how you play. Put your puppy on leash and prepare to go for a walk. Start moving in any direction you choose. The second your puppy puts tension on the leash, stop. Yep, do NOT move. Plant your feet and do not budge or allow your dog to drag you, not one inch. Wait until your puppy turns back toward you as if to say, “Hey! Why aren’t we moving?”
As soon as they put slack back on the leash, continue walking. Your dog wants to go somewhere and walking is the reinforcement. Teach them that you only move if there is slack in the leash. If they feel pressure on their collar, forward movement stops immediately. As a modification to this game, when your dog puts tension on the leash, turn the opposite direction. Circle around, make a figure eight. Do NOT go in the direction of where they were pulling - go the opposite way. This is best done in an area, not on a sidewalk so if your dog is pulling - get off the sidewalks for now.
At first, this may take time as your puppy learns that pulling does NOT work to get them where they want to go. Be persistent and your puppy will catch on that to move they must walk with slack in the leash.
Remember to stay consistent; once you start this game, you must always use it. It will do no good to let your dog pull sometimes, but then expect them not to at other times. Don’t confuse your pup! I recommend bringing along tasty food rewards to reinforce them when they are walking next to you in what we call the “Kitchen Area.” Every so often give them a food reward if they are walking nicely by your side. Also, forget going around the block for now. Start with your driveway, the path to the mailbox, or a neighbor’s house first. Then build up more and more distance when your patience and pup can handle it! Mix up the walk by changing directions, turning in circles, zigzagging, speeding up, slowing down, etc. Happy walking...with no more pulling!
Learning to Heel
Do you want your puppy to walk right next to your side? We call that a HEEL. It is a position we want our dog to be in and can be put on cue.
When you start an attention walk, we want our dogs to be in a HEEL position which is to say, on your left side directly behind your left heel facing forward parallel to your body.
To do this, I show my puppy a food reward in my left hand, then lure them as I take a significant step back with my left foot, followed by one large step forward with the same foot, helping them stand or sit facing forward next to my left side.
Once your puppy gets in this position successfully at least five times, you can start saying “HEEL” before stepping. Eventually, we will phase out the steps and simply be able to say, “HEEL,” so that they can move into this position.
While I don't use this behavior for long, it is useful when walking in a tight or crowded space. It signals your puppy that you want them right next to you in a particular position. LET'S GO is a similar cue that signals your puppy to walk alongside you. HEEL is more specific and only used for short segments of the walk.
I like to teach this behavior with my puppy off-leash in a small, enclosed area. Luring them with a food reward into the desired position tends to be the quickest way to get the job done and is very effective in this case. Once your puppy puts themself in the correct position in every room of your home, take the behavior outside, mixing it into your daily walks.
HOW TO TEACH "HEEL"
When you start an attention walk, we want our dogs to be in a HEEL position which is to say, on your left side directly behind your left heel facing forward parallel to your body.
To do this, I show my puppy a food reward in my left hand, then lure them as I take a significant step back with my left foot, followed by one large step forward with the same foot, helping them stand or sit facing forward next to my left side.
Once your puppy gets in this position successfully at least five times, you can start saying “HEEL” before stepping. Eventually, we will phase out the steps and simply be able to say, “HEEL,” so that they can move into this position.
While I don't use this behavior for long, it is useful when walking in a tight or crowded space. It signals your puppy that you want them right next to you in a particular position. LET'S GO is a similar cue that signals your puppy to walk alongside you. HEEL is more specific and only used for short segments of the walk.
I like to teach this behavior with my puppy off-leash in a small, enclosed area. Luring them with a food reward into the desired position tends to be the quickest way to get the job done and is very effective in this case. Once your puppy puts themself in the correct position in every room of your home, take the behavior outside, mixing it into your daily walks.
HOW TO TEACH "HEEL"
- Prepare (20) small training food rewards in a pouch or bowl.
- Use a food reward to lure your dog into the "HEEL" position as described above.
- Mark "YES" when they are sitting in the correct position and then give them a treat.
- After at least 5 times, start saying, "HEEL" before luring them into position.
- Practice saying, "HEEL" with the lure at least 5 times.
- Next, eliminate the treat lure and just say, "HEEL" waiting to mark "YES" until your puppy correctly moves behind your left heel parallel to you.
- Further the behavior by using it while walking. When you stop, your puppy should sit in a HEEL position.
- Do not mark "YES" if they are crooked. Make sure you are specific about the correct position from the beginning.
Is your Poodle Reactive
Does your puppy pull and lunge toward other dogs or people? Does he bark at the sight of someone or something? Ever feel like he goes from zero to sixty in two seconds and you don’t know what to do?
You are not alone. Some dogs are what we call “reactive,” meaning they overreact to specific stimuli in their environment. There are several tips and tricks to help retrain your dog in these circumstances to feel better and, hence, behave more appropriately. Remember our tip of thinking about what you want your dog to do, instead of what you don’t want them to do? That comes into play here.
Instead of my dog barking whenever they see something that triggers them, I prefer to have them look at me. So I start by thinking, “How can I train my dog to give me this behavior instead?” I use my marker word “YES” (or a clicker works well too) to mark and reward every time my dog looks at something that might be a trigger. Let’s say your neighbor is walking down the sidewalk, and you know this causes your dog to bark. I would start a good distance away with my dog on a leash and a bag of high-value rewards, preferably not facing the person head-on but to the side.
NOTE: Make sure you are far enough away to keep your dog under threshold or the point where he starts to react. Your dog must be under the threshold to start this training. Usually, this means creating distance between you and the object.
The second my dog looks their way, I mark, “YES” and give a food reward. Repeat this 10-20 times so your dog knows that looking at the trigger is getting them the food reward. Your dog will start looking at the trigger, then back to you for the next food reward. This is exactly what we want!! Step two is to wait to mark until your dog looks at you for the food reward. Now we have an “autowatch” where your dog starts to automatically look at you when he sees a trigger.
This may not be achieved in one session. You will need to start with one trigger and generalize the behavior to other triggers. Each time you change triggers, go back to step one where you food reward them for looking at the trigger. Once you get to the “autowatch” or the point where they look away then look back to you for a food reward, you start marking and rewarding the look at you, not the object. By looking away, your dog learns an alternative behavior (one that gets rewarded) for dealing with his anxiety and can replace his old behavior with a more rewarding one.
There are many methods of helping dogs who are reactive, with this “LOOK AWAY” game being one.
You are not alone. Some dogs are what we call “reactive,” meaning they overreact to specific stimuli in their environment. There are several tips and tricks to help retrain your dog in these circumstances to feel better and, hence, behave more appropriately. Remember our tip of thinking about what you want your dog to do, instead of what you don’t want them to do? That comes into play here.
Instead of my dog barking whenever they see something that triggers them, I prefer to have them look at me. So I start by thinking, “How can I train my dog to give me this behavior instead?” I use my marker word “YES” (or a clicker works well too) to mark and reward every time my dog looks at something that might be a trigger. Let’s say your neighbor is walking down the sidewalk, and you know this causes your dog to bark. I would start a good distance away with my dog on a leash and a bag of high-value rewards, preferably not facing the person head-on but to the side.
NOTE: Make sure you are far enough away to keep your dog under threshold or the point where he starts to react. Your dog must be under the threshold to start this training. Usually, this means creating distance between you and the object.
The second my dog looks their way, I mark, “YES” and give a food reward. Repeat this 10-20 times so your dog knows that looking at the trigger is getting them the food reward. Your dog will start looking at the trigger, then back to you for the next food reward. This is exactly what we want!! Step two is to wait to mark until your dog looks at you for the food reward. Now we have an “autowatch” where your dog starts to automatically look at you when he sees a trigger.
This may not be achieved in one session. You will need to start with one trigger and generalize the behavior to other triggers. Each time you change triggers, go back to step one where you food reward them for looking at the trigger. Once you get to the “autowatch” or the point where they look away then look back to you for a food reward, you start marking and rewarding the look at you, not the object. By looking away, your dog learns an alternative behavior (one that gets rewarded) for dealing with his anxiety and can replace his old behavior with a more rewarding one.
There are many methods of helping dogs who are reactive, with this “LOOK AWAY” game being one.
Get your poodles attention fast
Attention is vital to puppy training! You must have your puppy’s attention first before you can ask them to do anything. Puppies cannot focus on two things at once. Whatever your puppy is looking at, they are thinking about, and we want it to be YOU during a training session.
I like to play the following game with my puppies. I put my puppy on a four-foot leash and get 5-10 small chewy training food rewards in my pocket. Without saying a word, I hold the leash and stand facing a different direction than my puppy. Then I wait. My puppy eventually tries to find my face to see what I’m doing. When they look at my face, I mark, “YES,” and give them a food reward. Then I rotate 90 degrees, and the game starts over. I repeat it several more times until my puppy quickly finds my face.
Some puppies figure out that they must make eye contact for the food reward almost immediately. Others take longer. Your puppy might sit next to you, content as can be. Hold out! Ensure they know you have yummy food rewards on hand, and their brains will start ticking about how to get them! This is a game of patience in which your puppy learns to think. Nothing is more fun than watching puppies process information and figure things out for themselves. The beauty is that you are getting them to do what you want without saying a word!
I like to play the following game with my puppies. I put my puppy on a four-foot leash and get 5-10 small chewy training food rewards in my pocket. Without saying a word, I hold the leash and stand facing a different direction than my puppy. Then I wait. My puppy eventually tries to find my face to see what I’m doing. When they look at my face, I mark, “YES,” and give them a food reward. Then I rotate 90 degrees, and the game starts over. I repeat it several more times until my puppy quickly finds my face.
Some puppies figure out that they must make eye contact for the food reward almost immediately. Others take longer. Your puppy might sit next to you, content as can be. Hold out! Ensure they know you have yummy food rewards on hand, and their brains will start ticking about how to get them! This is a game of patience in which your puppy learns to think. Nothing is more fun than watching puppies process information and figure things out for themselves. The beauty is that you are getting them to do what you want without saying a word!
Recall
The recall is one of THE most important things we can teach a puppy. When a young puppy first joins your family, they have a natural instinct to follow you. I use this instinct to train my puppies to come when called. We spend a lot of time in the yard working and playing off leash. Every minute or so, I quickly move away from my puppy while saying, "Puppy puppy COME!" and then I ALWAYS give my dog a reward for doing so. I feed them a food reward, take hold of their collar (because it's good practice and prevents the "catch-me-if-you-can game") and then let them go play again. Then I take off in the opposite direction and play again.
I do this A LOT! Multiple times a day, every day until my puppies know that when I say the word, "COME," it means they will get a reward and a friendly scratch under the collar EVERY TIME. I start by calling my puppy to me from 2-3 feet away. Then I progress to 6 feet, 10 feet, 20 feet until finally my pups can be running on the opposite end of my acreage and come running from over 300 feet away. Every. Single. Time.
I do this A LOT! Multiple times a day, every day until my puppies know that when I say the word, "COME," it means they will get a reward and a friendly scratch under the collar EVERY TIME. I start by calling my puppy to me from 2-3 feet away. Then I progress to 6 feet, 10 feet, 20 feet until finally my pups can be running on the opposite end of my acreage and come running from over 300 feet away. Every. Single. Time.
Teach your puppy how to greet a human politely
Just as important as teaching your kids how to act around others properly, dogs need to learn the appropriate way to say hello to people, as this will inevitably be a part of their everyday life while living as a family member. In fact, I have yet to meet someone who enjoys it when a stranger's dog abruptly introduces themselves by jumping all over them - talk about HELLO! In short, teaching your puppy how to greet people properly is simply good manners. This can and should be taught correctly from the very beginning of your training, and it is never too late to get started. It is better today than next week, but next week is better than next month.
When a visitor arrives at your home, imagine what you want your puppy to do… I picture my puppy calmly walking over to the person, sitting at their feet, and waiting for the person to acknowledge them. In reality, it looks more like this… my doodle excitedly walks over to the person, tail wagging to the point that her little bottom is moving from side to side. She then sniffs their pant leg slightly and plops her behind on the floor, looking up at the person as if to say, “Please, please, oh please, pet me!” If she likes the person, her whole body wriggles with excitement as she tries her hardest to remain seated for attention.
Even though my puppy’s actions may vary slightly from the nice and relaxed version in my mind, my puppy did in her own way exactly what I wanted her to do. There was no jumping, no pushing, no licking… she controlled her excitement and sat, waiting for attention, and this was important. Remember that your dog is a living being with a mind of their own. As they learn, we should always remain positive and reward the good, better, and best behaviors. I would focus on marking and rewarding the polite greeting of sitting for attention, even though their version of sitting for attention is a bit more exciting than what was pictured in my mind, and I will continually work on fine-tuning it as they get more experienced; in the beginning, making sure to reward their efforts as long as they are in line with what you want them to do.
If your puppy is TOO excited to sit initially, try tossing a food reward AWAY from the person. Your puppy will turn to get the food. Once they turn back to the person, throw the next food reward away from the person. Repeat several times until your puppy learns the game. Then try getting your puppy to sit to say please for the next food reward to be tossed. This game allows your excited puppy to move while keeping their attention away from the person and all four paws on the ground.
If you have a puppy who is not so excited about greeting others, that is ok. Try this… every time your puppy sees a stranger, turn and walk away from the person as you feed your puppy food rewards. Once you are a distance away, where your puppy starts to relax, ask your puppy to “SIT” and then start feeding them something yummy while the person walks by at a distance. Continue feeding food rewards until the person walks by. When the person appears, the food rewards start; when the person leaves, the food rewards stop. If you do this every time your puppy meets a new person, they will come to associate new people with yummy food rewards, which is a very good thing!
So, this week, think of how you picture your puppy greeting someone and begin teaching your puppy to do it better! Remember from our lesson on free shaping that you can break the behavior into multiple little steps and reward each one. Use food rewards to help lure your puppy into the behaviors you are looking for and keep a leash on them in order to prevent any jumping.
When a visitor arrives at your home, imagine what you want your puppy to do… I picture my puppy calmly walking over to the person, sitting at their feet, and waiting for the person to acknowledge them. In reality, it looks more like this… my doodle excitedly walks over to the person, tail wagging to the point that her little bottom is moving from side to side. She then sniffs their pant leg slightly and plops her behind on the floor, looking up at the person as if to say, “Please, please, oh please, pet me!” If she likes the person, her whole body wriggles with excitement as she tries her hardest to remain seated for attention.
Even though my puppy’s actions may vary slightly from the nice and relaxed version in my mind, my puppy did in her own way exactly what I wanted her to do. There was no jumping, no pushing, no licking… she controlled her excitement and sat, waiting for attention, and this was important. Remember that your dog is a living being with a mind of their own. As they learn, we should always remain positive and reward the good, better, and best behaviors. I would focus on marking and rewarding the polite greeting of sitting for attention, even though their version of sitting for attention is a bit more exciting than what was pictured in my mind, and I will continually work on fine-tuning it as they get more experienced; in the beginning, making sure to reward their efforts as long as they are in line with what you want them to do.
If your puppy is TOO excited to sit initially, try tossing a food reward AWAY from the person. Your puppy will turn to get the food. Once they turn back to the person, throw the next food reward away from the person. Repeat several times until your puppy learns the game. Then try getting your puppy to sit to say please for the next food reward to be tossed. This game allows your excited puppy to move while keeping their attention away from the person and all four paws on the ground.
If you have a puppy who is not so excited about greeting others, that is ok. Try this… every time your puppy sees a stranger, turn and walk away from the person as you feed your puppy food rewards. Once you are a distance away, where your puppy starts to relax, ask your puppy to “SIT” and then start feeding them something yummy while the person walks by at a distance. Continue feeding food rewards until the person walks by. When the person appears, the food rewards start; when the person leaves, the food rewards stop. If you do this every time your puppy meets a new person, they will come to associate new people with yummy food rewards, which is a very good thing!
So, this week, think of how you picture your puppy greeting someone and begin teaching your puppy to do it better! Remember from our lesson on free shaping that you can break the behavior into multiple little steps and reward each one. Use food rewards to help lure your puppy into the behaviors you are looking for and keep a leash on them in order to prevent any jumping.
Cleaning your poodles teeth stress free
Yep! Even your dog needs their teeth cleaned! Here are a few tips:
- Brushing your dog’s teeth helps them live longer and stay pain-free. Get in the habit of brushing your dog’s teeth early. It prevents disease and keeps their mouth in tip-top shape.
- If you have a puppy, start NOW! Starting with a young puppy is much easier, so don’t delay. If you have an older dog, don’t despair. Ease into it slowly, aiming to brush one tooth on day one, two on two, and so forth. Finish with a play session or belly rubs, whatever your dog likes best!
- Make it rewarding. I always begin by letting my puppy lick a little of the toothpaste off the brush. I also use a finger brush, as it is soft and easy to feel their teeth. Begin brushing one side very gently, raising the lips with your hand. Do not force open your dog’s mouth, as it will likely be a power struggle. End the session by letting your puppy lick the remaining toothpaste from the brush.
- Chicken or liver flavor toothpaste for dogs is a must! Dogs do not spit out their toothpaste like humans, so be sure to buy pet-safe toothpaste, which may be swallowed. There are several different flavors available. I have yet to meet a puppy that does not like chicken or liver flavored!
- Keep sessions short. Puppies have a short attention span, and we want this to be a positive experience. Do not try to brush all of their teeth on day one. Build up to it. Once they let you brush all of their teeth, get the back teeth well, reward them, and move on to more enjoyable activities.
- Want to keep it simple? Check out these chews from PawTree! Plaque Control is a delicious, easy way to help control plaque and tartar on your pet's teeth, promoting normal periodontal health.
- Give them plenty of chew toys. Chewing helps clean your dog's teeth, and we know puppies love to chew! Provide them with various safe things to chew on, such as Kongs, West Paw toys, Farm Hounds natural chews, etc. If you have questions about what is safe for your dog, consult your veterinarian.
Why Puppy Growling Isn’t Bad
Have you ever heard your puppy growl and thought, “Uh oh… is something wrong?” You're not alone — but here’s the good news:
Growling is not bad. In fact, it's a very important part of how dogs communicate.
Just like humans use words to express emotions, puppies growl to let us know they’re uncomfortable, unsure, overstimulated, or even just playing. It’s their way of saying, “Hey, I need space,” or “I’m not sure about this.”
So what should you do when your puppy growls? Don’t punish it. Punishing a growl can teach your puppy to skip the warning signs and go straight to a bite.
Pause and assess. What’s happening in the moment? Is your puppy overwhelmed, tired, or feeling threatened?
Respect the growl. Give them space or redirect the situation in a positive way.
Use it as information. A growl is an opportunity to build trust and teach your pup how to handle that situation better next time.
With the right approach, growling becomes a helpful tool in training — not something to fear.
Growling is not bad. In fact, it's a very important part of how dogs communicate.
Just like humans use words to express emotions, puppies growl to let us know they’re uncomfortable, unsure, overstimulated, or even just playing. It’s their way of saying, “Hey, I need space,” or “I’m not sure about this.”
So what should you do when your puppy growls? Don’t punish it. Punishing a growl can teach your puppy to skip the warning signs and go straight to a bite.
Pause and assess. What’s happening in the moment? Is your puppy overwhelmed, tired, or feeling threatened?
Respect the growl. Give them space or redirect the situation in a positive way.
Use it as information. A growl is an opportunity to build trust and teach your pup how to handle that situation better next time.
With the right approach, growling becomes a helpful tool in training — not something to fear.
Does your dog look at you funny when you say sit?
Have you ever asked your puppy to “SIT” but instead he looks at you like, “I have no idea what you are talking about!”? Puppies do not generalize well, meaning “SIT” must be taught not only in the living room, but in the kitchen, bedroom, bathroom, front yard, back yard, etc. Every behavior & cue your puppy learns must be practiced in a variety of locations, at different times of the day, given by people other than yourself and amidst distractions.
Of course, you won’t want to try this on day one, especially with a very young puppy. Work up to it! Start by teaching your puppy a new behavior in a quiet room with minimal distractions. Once your puppy no longer needs a lure to do the behavior, move to a different room and work on the behavior there. Keep moving around until your puppy realizes that “SIT” means “SIT” no matter where we are or what we are doing. Repeat with all new cues.
You may need to start teaching the cue from the luring phase depending on your location. For example, if you are on main street and your puppy is so distracted by the many cars speeding by, you may need to pull out a food reward lure to regain his attention on you. Then you can practice the cue only using the lure if needed; try saying just the cue and only use the lure if he does not respond after 5-7 seconds. Practice the cue several times in the new location until he successfully performs as desired.
Keep things positive and training sessions short, especially with young puppies! Strive for 2-3 good performances then move on. Your goal is for your puppy to do every behavior he knows, in any location, given by anyone, with any distraction going on. This is tough and a high demand! Do not get frustrated. Just set your sights high and your puppy will rise to the occasion with practice, patience and persistence.
Of course, you won’t want to try this on day one, especially with a very young puppy. Work up to it! Start by teaching your puppy a new behavior in a quiet room with minimal distractions. Once your puppy no longer needs a lure to do the behavior, move to a different room and work on the behavior there. Keep moving around until your puppy realizes that “SIT” means “SIT” no matter where we are or what we are doing. Repeat with all new cues.
You may need to start teaching the cue from the luring phase depending on your location. For example, if you are on main street and your puppy is so distracted by the many cars speeding by, you may need to pull out a food reward lure to regain his attention on you. Then you can practice the cue only using the lure if needed; try saying just the cue and only use the lure if he does not respond after 5-7 seconds. Practice the cue several times in the new location until he successfully performs as desired.
Keep things positive and training sessions short, especially with young puppies! Strive for 2-3 good performances then move on. Your goal is for your puppy to do every behavior he knows, in any location, given by anyone, with any distraction going on. This is tough and a high demand! Do not get frustrated. Just set your sights high and your puppy will rise to the occasion with practice, patience and persistence.
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Copyright ©2016 Dreier’s Fire Poodles
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Ph: (530)713-8338
E-mail: [email protected]
Copyright ©2016 Dreier’s Fire Poodles
All Rights Reserved